Head to the store or online and you’ll be besieged by a litany of beauty products that all make big promises. To cut through the “where do I begin?” confusion, we asked top-notch dermatologists how to get things under control. Hormonal acne in women often worsens with the menstrual cycle. The acne bumps usually pop up closer to your jawline and chin, as opposed to the acne that might’ve plagued you in your teen years, which is often localized to the face and forehead, according to the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD). (1) Hormonal acne often looks more inflammatory in nature (think deep and red), so the treatment is all about calming skin, she says. Look for topical benzoyl peroxide, which targets Cutibacterium acnes, the bacteria that causes acne, noted an article published in the journal Dermatology Times. (2) If you have sensitive skin, products containing sulfur or willow bark can also help clear skin. Ultimately, your gynecologist and dermatologist can work closely together to regulate a disruptive hormonal cycle for clearer skin. You may also want to consider an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) serum for cell turnover (some people may not tolerate an AHA). Ideally, start with one that contains 5 percent AHA, and work up to greater concentrations as long as it is tolerable. Alternate between the retinoid and the AHA in your nightly routine, Dr. Sadick says. Examples of AHAs are glycolic and lactic acid. It also should go without saying that you need to be diligent with good sun protection to help slow premature aging. This includes using a broad-spectrum SPF 30 daily (increase to SPF 45 or 50 for prolonged or intense sun exposure, and reapply every two to four hours), wearing a wide-brimmed hat when out in the sun, sporting wraparound sunglasses, and seeking shade when possible, the AAD recommends. (3) Also look for products that contain niacinamide, an anti-inflammatory ingredient that can quell touchy complexions, past research suggests. (4) While you tackle redness, you can also use cosmetics with a green tint, a color that neutralizes redness and can help give the appearance of more evenly toned skin, L’Oréal points out on its website. (5) But lack of sleep is a huge culprit behind that look, and if it’s a common occurrence, you may have to work on sleep hygiene habits or prioritizing shut-eye. The National Sleep Foundation recommends that adults aim to get seven to nine hours of sleep every night. (7) Beyond that, there are a slew of remedies that can deflate those bags. The Mayo Clinic notes that you have medication and surgical options at your disposal, so consult your derm if those avenues feel right for you. (6) For a quicker fix, reach for eye creams that have a metal-tip applicator, suggests Dr. Garshick. These supply a cooling surface (think chilled cucumber slices) that depuff. If you need some extra coverage after a restless night, slather on some foundation. (We’ve all been there.) Nonetheless, rethink your tendency to grab the thickest moisturizer you can find, which can clog pores and cause acne. So, while it may seem counterintuitive, you want to grab a lightweight moisturizer that has more of a liquid consistency, says Dr. Sadick. If you suspect you have it — your cheeks, nose, chin, or forehead are persistently red or you notice small visible blood vessels — see a dermatologist. Treatment involves lifestyle changes to avoid triggers, such as reducing stress and limiting sun exposure, choosing fragrance-free skin products, and minimizing your skin-care routine overall. In-office treatments, like IPL (intense pulsed light therapy) may also be helpful, per the National Rosacea Society. (10,11) If circles look more blue-grey, the issue may be that blood vessels are showing through the thin under-eye skin. In that case, a product containing caffeine “can help collapse the blood vessels to lessen the appearance of darkness,” says Dr. Garshick. Just know that HQ is a controversial ingredient, and some people opt to avoid it because of worries about its safety or potential to cause irritation. (Researchers say there isn’t enough evidence to suggest that this is the case, but the choice is yours.) (13) As an alternative, look for products containing licorice extract, azelaic acid, niacinamide, or arbutin, ingredients that are known for their brightening properties. “These will stimulate new collagen formation to reduce sagging,” says Dr. Garshick. The result: a lifted look with less pain and no postsurgical recovery time required.
